It amazes me that in Australia it’s now possible to pay more than $100 for Bourgogne Rouge, a Pinot Noir at the bottom of Burgundy’s red wine hierarchy, theoretically coming from anywhere within the region. It’s so hard to find value.
Domaine Chanson in Beaune.
I think many producers are riding the wave of global Burgundy popularity, particularly with red Burgundy from the outstanding 2015vintage. It’s one of the reasons I find myself drinking less Burgundy, even though I’d like to be drinking more.
So I’m pleased to be able to offer a 2015 Bourgogne Rouge from Domaine Chanson, which at considerably less than half the price of similar wines, is extraordinary value.
This 2015 release is looking great - no surprise given its vintage. Weather conditions during the growing season were excellent, with hail avoided except in Chablis. A colleague in the region at the time humorously observed; “Burgundians alway find something to whinge about at vintage, but even they were over the moon about 2015!”
Experts have been making comparisons to the stellar vintages of 2005 and 2009, but you can’t go past Volnay’s long time mayor, Michel Lafarge’s opinion on the matter. He asserts that “no other vintage in the past 60 years is really comparable.” Born in 1928 and considered one of the Côte d’Or’s most respected, yet humble vignerons, Lafarge is surely one of the very few who could make such an assessment. He drew parallels with the wines of 1929 which he tasted as a young man in his family’s cellars.
“Another towering figure in the Burgundian landscape, Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, reported that in 2015, his fiftieth vintage, the vines were more beautiful than ever.” Jancis Robinson, Financial Times.
“The 2015 vintage is an extraordinary one throughout the Côte d’Or. The red wines are truly great: rich, powerful and statuesque but almost always underpinned by juicy acidity.” DecanterMagazine
“A vintage of stellar even mind-blowing Pinot Noirs. In a word, the reds are fabulous.” Wine Spectator.
“A vintage not to miss… 2015 Burgundy was an across-the-board success from the simplest Bourgognes to the great grand crus.” James Suckling.
“The reds are another matter. At their best, they are like a combination of the glossy exuberance of the 2009s with the acidity and poise of the 2010s and a bit of the structure of the 2005s thrown in. The good news for consumers and for merchants, is that the generic and village wines are very good in 2015, not just the more vaunted Premiers and Grands Crus.” Tim Atkin, MW.
“A great vintage, indeed the greatest since the legendary 2005… Offering unbelievable purity of fruit and a fine balance along with the magical ‘Burgundy X-factor’, I have not tasted such delicious young, red Burgundy.”Burghound, Allen Meadows.
Domaine Chanson Le Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2015
Despite the generic Bourgogne rating, the fruit for this wine is far from it. It’s sourced from select estate-owned vineyards, from both the Côte de Beaune (southern part of the Côte d’Or) and the Côte de Nuits (northern part of the Côte d’Or). I’m told a lot of the fruit comes from Santenay (south of Beaune), including ‘Village’ and ‘Premier Cru’ vineyards. All Pinot Noir at Chanson, including the Bourgogne Rouge, is 100% whole bunch fermented and is matured in 25% new oak.
In my experience Bourgogne Rouge is often lean, weedy, acidic and overpriced. But the fact that Chanson includes the varietal name Pinot Noir on the label is a clue that theirs is made in a different style. It’s much more generous.
The wine is a clear garnet and as you’d expect given the warmer conditions, it’s more generous and rich, with more fruit than the previous vintage.
“Bright red colour. Intense aromas of ripe black cherries mixed with liquorice and spices. Complex and well crafted. Tight and soft texture with well integrated tannins. Long and refreshing aftertaste.” Winemaker’s notes.
“This has some density to the cherry, berry, spice and smoke flavors, but remains ripe and charming. Firms up on the finish, where earth and spice notes mingle. Drink now through 2023.”90 points, Wine Spectator (a great score for a Bourgogne Rouge).
Franck Moreau, one of only two Master Sommeliers in Australia and Group Sommelier for the Merivale empire, has included it on the lists of several restaurants (again). You’ll find the 2015 at the trés French Felix at $80 a bottle.
This wine is outstanding value and is without a doubt one of the best value Bourgogne Rouge to be found. You won’t regret having a few of these in your cellar.
I can offer it for $32 a bottle (same price as last year). Click here to order.