Valpolicella - The Valley of Many Cellars

Valpolicella is one of those wine names that many recognise, but few can pin down. Some will no doubt think of heroic Amarone, a rich, alcoholic and expensive wine. But there’s a more approachable and affordable wine that I've been enjoying lately known as Valpolicella Classico, and it’s a perfect mid-week, mid-weight quaffer with lots of appeal.

Typical of European wine terms, Valpolicella refers to both the place and the wine. Located in the northeast of Italy, the area known as Valpolicella is in the region of Veneto, the capital of which is Venice. Veneto is also home to Soave and Prosecco, as well as Italy’s biggest wine fair, VinItaly, which is held in Verona each spring.

The name Valpolicella comes from the Latin ‘the valley’ (vallis) of the ‘many’ (polys) ‘cellars’ (cellae). The term dates back to the 12th century, although wine was already being made here hundreds of years before.

Valpolicella stretches from Lake Garda, up to the border with Austria in the north and across to the Adriatic coast in the east. Historically the region was in an area northwest of Verona, however when it achieved DOC (second highest appellation classification) status in 1968, the boundaries were significantly expanded. The original area, considered to possess better vineyard sites and produce better quality wines, became known as the Classico zone. Wines from this area may be labelled asValpolicella Classico as opposed to simply Valpolicella.

There are many varieties grown in Valpolicella but the 3 you need to know are CorvinaVeronese, Rondinella and Molinara. They’re used in varying ways in the region to produce wines of different styles, including Amarone, which is made by drying out the grapes and concentrating the sugar. The resulting wine is dry, incredibly rich, alcoholic and expensive. Valpolicella Ripasso is made by reusing the pomace (grape skins and seeds) from the Amarone in the production of standard Valpolicella. This technique beefs up the wine, adding colour, weight, alcohol, tannins and complexity... but they're two wines for another time.

Valpolicella Classico is very much a wine for every day. It tends to be mid-weight and fresh, with flavours of black and sour cherry and herbs. It’s usually un-oaked, high in acid and low in tannins, making it very approachable. There's nothing like Valpolicella Classico anywhere else in the world - it's definitely one you should try.

Here's one of the best Valpolicella Classicos around at a great price.

Agricola Allegrini

Allegrini is a family owned business, located near the village of Fumane, in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico area. The Allegrini family have been involved in grape growing and winemaking here since 1557and today have about 100 ha of vineyards, located on some of the best sites within the Classico DOC area. The family also owns two estates in Tuscany.

This estate rose to prominence in the early 60s, under Giovanni Allegrini. Now several members of the Allegrini family run the business, including Giovanni’s children Franco and Marilisa.

These days Allegrini is considered one of Valpolicella’s, and Italy’s, finest estates. Stunning vineyard sites and a clever combination of tradition and technology is the key to their success. Work in both the vineyard and winery is meticulous with the current generation taking a modern approach to wine making, producing (by Italian standards) intensely fruit driven styles.

“The Allegrini family is one of the strongest pillars supporting the centuries-old winemaking traditions of the Valpolicella and the veritable renaissance those traditions are experiencing today.” Monica Larner, erobertparker Oct 2013, #209.

“… one of the region’s best-known producers.”Wine Spectator.

On many occasions the estate has been awarded Tre Bicchieri (3 glasses), the highest award by the Bible of Italian Wines, Gambero Rosso.

Allegrini makes a range of wines including an outstanding Amarone and what is often regarded as the top Corvina Veroneses, the powerful La Poja. Both wines are regularly rated 90+ by international critics and sell for well over $150 a bottle.

Allegrini Valpolicella Classcio 2013

This is Allegrini’s entry-level wine and it’s a blend of 65% Corvina Veronese, 30% Rondinella and 5% Molinara.

The fruit is handpicked within the Classico area, from vines with an average age of 32 years. The grapes are destemmed and fermented in temperature controlled tanks, after which they're soft pressed and aged for about another 5 months in tank. The wine sees no oak and gets another 2 months in bottle before release. These techniques all accentuate the wine’s freshness - a key attribute of Valpolicella.

The wine is a clear ruby, plummy colour. It’s beautifully fragrant and on the palate has flavours of raspberry, sour cherry and dried herbs. You’ll find it mid-weight, fresh, astringent and lively, with clean, firm acidity and minimal tannins. As it opens up, it gains a little weight and becomes more fragrant, but it’s the overwhelming purity of the upfront sweet and sour cherry fruit that keeps drawing me back for another glass.

“Ruby red in colour, with purplish-blue highlights; the nose exhibits fragrant fruit with prominent notes of cherries, echoed by fresher hints of pepper and aromatic herbs, typical of Corvina, an historic varietal of this appellation. Whilst young it is impressively lively and playful on the palate whereas some two years on it expresses greater delicacy and finesse.” Winemaker’s notes.

“Fresh and balanced, with a pleasing mix of ripe cherry, hot stone, black raspberry and spice notes. Drink now through 2017. Wine Spectator, Dec 2014.

Interestingly (and ludicrously) DOC rules in Valpolicella Classico don't permit the use of screwcaps. Allegrini, on the other hand, believe screw caps do such a good job that they've dropped the Classico denomination on this wine and label it simply as Valpolicella, even though if qualifies as Classico. Ah, the joys of Italian wine law!

This is a simple and refreshing wine with Italian personality. The fresh acid and low tannins mean you really must try it with lovely prosciutto, salami and olives or pair it with smokey woodfired pizza. You don't need an excuse to open this one.

It’s at Merivale’s top Italian restaurant Ucello for $65 a bottle. 

I can offer it for $25 a bottle. SOLD OUT