My last offer was first growth Bordeaux, so this week it’s definitely time for a midweek tipple. And while pinot noir might not seem an obvious choice, I recently tasted a sub $30 bottle that really hit the spot.
Terra Sancta, Mysterious Diggings vineyard.
For a long time in the wine drinking world, all pinot noir roads lead to Burgundy. But the last few decades have seen several other regions gain popularity, including; Oregon, Sonoma, Germany, Mornington, Gippsland, Tasmania, Martinborough and of course Central Otago in the south island of New Zealand, which is where this particular wine is from.
World renowned critic, James Suckling recently scored this wine an incredible 98 points.
To put this in perspective, a quick flip through Suckling’s Top 100 New Zealand Wines 2023 reveals only 3 Central Otago Pinots that scored 98 or above:
And Suckling’s scores for the current Bordeaux 2023 campaign (still in barrel) included:
Without wishing to debate the merits of wine scoring and whether you love or loathe Suckling, there’s no doubt 98 points is a clear indicator of quality and an even more noteworthy achievement for a wine under $30.
So let me tell you a little more about Central Otago. Despite enjoying worldwide acclaim, it might surprise you to learn that it only accounts for around 2,000 ha or 5% of New Zealand’s vineyards (2023). And unlike the rest of New Zealand, where sauvignon blanc reigns supreme, accounting for a whopping 65% of vineyard area (2023), in Central Otago pinot noir is king with 80% of plantings (nzwine.com). By comparison, Burgundy (excluding Beaujolais) is around 29,000ha.
Given the region’s success, it’s hard to believe it dates back a mere 30 years. While a lone Frenchman made wine here back in the 1860s, it wasn’t until the 1970s and 80s that experimental plantings appeared, and not until the late 1990s that commercial success and further growth was accomplished.
Located about three quarters of the way down the South Island of New Zealand, just east of Queenstown, vineyards in Central Otago have some of the most idyllic backdrops imaginable.
Central Otago is a lot further south than most people realise. In fact it’s the most southerly wine region in the world, sitting at approximately the same latitude south of the equator as Burgundy sits north. There are generally considered to be 6 key sub-regions of Central Otago: Wanaka, Gibbston, Bannockburn, Alexandra, Bendigo and Cromwell/Lowburn/Pisa.
Due to its latitude, Central Otago is cool, but unlike any other New Zealand wine region, it sits a good distance from the ocean, protected from the wild maritime conditions that come in from the west, by a high range of mountains. The result is a continental climate, unusual for New Zealand, which means high temperature variations. Summer can see temps up to the high 30s and winter down to minus 10, with average day/night variations throughout the year of between 10 to 15 degrees. It’s this ability to be cool and warm that makes the ripening of grapes in Central Otago possible.
In the past, Central Otago Pinot was cheekily referred to as cool climate shiraz or pinot on steroids. ‘Hot and clumsy’ are words critics sometimes used. But recent talk, and more importantly tasting, indicates that the era of extraction in Central Otago is over. As vines have aged and winemakers are better understanding their sites, there’s been a transformation, moving away from older style opulence and power to a new era of refinement, brightness and an impressive ability to age.
At the annual Central Otago Pinot Celebration, Jasper Morris MW, who’d been coming to the region since the early 90s, recently noted that he now sees Central Otago as producing “some of the best wines I see anywhere.” This is a big call from one of the world’s foremost authorities on Burgundy. And he’s not the only one enamoured of the region. “Of all the places that Pinot Noir is grown and made in the New World, none has lit the sky as brightly as Central Otago in the last decade,” Nick Stock (Aussie critic for big wine publications globally).
Pinot Noir from Central Otago has come of age and emblematic of this change is a small, and I think special estate, Terra Sancta.
Terra Sancta
Terra Sancta has prime vineyards in the Central Otago sub-region of Bannockburn, which lies about 30km east of Queenstown. The area was initially settled for gold in the mid 1800s, but these days is best known as one of Central Otago’s best sub-regions.
“Bannockburn is Central Otago’s vinous sweet spot’ I wrote many years ago after tasting an extensive selection of pinot noir from Central Otago. That statement is as valid today as it was nearly two decades ago.” Bob Campbell MW.
The region enjoys a high profile and is home to such gems as Felton Road, Mt Difficulty (US billionaire Bill Foley), Akarua (Rothschild), Calvert (LVMH) and to that I would add Terra Sancta. Due to the topography, vines can only be planted in a very defined area, on the south bank of the Kawarau River, with nothing above 400M, as they’ll not ripen. By 2016 the region was at 325ha, with pretty much no more room to plant.
For such a well-regarded region, it’s amazing that the first vines were only planted in 1991 by the Olsen family and it’s their vineyard that ex-corporate lawyer and general dynamo Sarah Elliot purchased in 2010, at the height of the GFC, with Mark Weldon ex-Olympic swimmer and ex-head of the NZ stock exchange. The pair were also able to purchase the vineyard next door and with these created Terra Sancta.
A newfangled winery was built in 2012 and over time several more vineyards were acquired, which are now broadly referred to as: Sancta Vineyard (est. 1991), Mysterious Diggings Vineyard (est. 1999), Terra Vineyard (est. 2001) and The Irresistible Race Vineyard (est. 2013). In line with varietal plantings across the wider Central Otago region, pinot noir accounts for 80% of the estate’s plantings.
As for the name Terra Sancta, it’s the name of original map of the Terra Sancta - The Holy Land - created by Abraham Ortelius in 1582. Sarah’s a bit of a nut for antique maps, telling me about Ortelius’ “terrarum” the first atlas (collection of maps) of the world, as well as introducing me to the term cartouche, which among other meanings, is the illustrated image or emblem that surrounds the place name of a map, and tells the story of the place depicted in the map. This concept of allegorical portraits is the inspiration for the Terra Sancta labels, which like a cartouche, aim to tell the story of the wine. A source code as Sarah likes to say.
Terra Sancta wine labels tell a story.
Sarah has followed a regenerative agriculture organics program, with no tilling of the soil and no additives. The estate has the cutest flock of baby-doll sheep, as well as hens, both of which generate 51 tonnes of animal compost annually. Terra Sancta also produces beer, olive oil, an apertivo and a range of wines - red (pinot noir) and white (pinot grigio, chardonnay, riesling and gewürtz).
Terra Sancta was named in the Top 100 Wineries of the World by Top US guide, Wine & Spirits Magazine in 2015 and regularly receives high praise and awards from the critics.
Most recently it was included on the Real Review’s Top 100 Wineries of New Zealand 2024, coming in at 20th spot, ahead of the likes of Cloudy Bay (26th), Rippon (27th), Prophet’s Rock (32nd), Mt Difficulty (41st), Kumeu River (51st) and Burn Cottage (58th).
The estate knocks out several pinots but it was their entry level one that garners all the praise from Suckling.
Terra Sancta Mysterious Diggings Pinot Noir 2022
The wine is made from handpicked fruit from The Mysterious Diggings Vineyards. Fermentation was carried out using wild yeasts and ageing was completed in (neutral) French oak barrels. The wine was bottled at the estate under screwcap and is 13% alcohol.
In the glass this is a clear crimson with a rusty edge. On the nose, cherry, chocolate and sweet tobacco meld with pepper and rose petals. On the palate this shows great varietal characters. Juicy sour cherry and richer earthy, prosciutto notes are tempered with a smattering of pepper and graphite. Silky smooth tannins and great balancing acid complete this elegant composition.
“Medium bright ruby, the nose entices with lifted violets and lavender, accompanied by thyme and red berries. On the palate, a medley of red cherries, raspberries, and boysenberries is enriched by brambles, mocha and spice, which add complexity. Vibrant and energetic, yet with a soft, silky texture, its supple tannins make it very approachable. Balanced with a long finish, this is a characteristically vibrant, delicious Pinot Noir.” Winemaker's notes.
“Gorgeous aromas of fresh flowers, ripe strawberries and tangerine blossoms. Medium-bodied with a lovely balance of fruit and acidity and a creamy texture that is open and cashmere-like in texture. Wonderful finish. A triumph. A joy to drink. Drink or hold.” 98 points. James Suckling. (An extraordinary review for a wine of this price).
4.5 Stars, Michael Cooper, 2024.
This has to be one of the best Central Otago pinots under $30.
Stock up!
I can offer it for $27.50 a bottle.
And I can also offer you Terra Sancta’s rosé.
Top-Rated Rosé in the new Real Review New Zealand Wine Classification.
The First and only New Zealand Rosé to achieve Classic and Super Classic classification - Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide to NZ Wine.
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Terra Sancta Estate Pinot Noir Rosé 2022
Made from 100% pinot noir that would otherwise go into Central Otago pinot noir - so you know these guys are serious.
“Silken-textured rosé with raspberry, cherry/berry and savoury flavours that are subtle and lengthy. A backbone of tangy acidity and fine tannins promote a crisp and refreshingly dry finish. Serious rosé and a good food wine.” 95 points, Bob Campbell, The Real Review 2022.
“From one vintage to the next, this is one of the country’s top rosés. Estate-grown and hand-harvested, the youthful 2022 vintage is principally (85 per cent) from vines planted in Sarah’s Block in 1995. ... it is fresh and vibrantly fruity, with strong peach and strawberry flavours, showing a distinct complexity, lively acidity and a slightly off-dry... very harmonious finish.” 5 Stars, Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide 2022.
“Fabulously elegant and delicately fragrant, the wine shows white flesh stone fruit, lemon pith, apple and floral aromas with a hint of sweet strawberry. The palate is equally charming with fine focus and silky flow, beautifully complemented by juicy fruit flavours and vibrant acidity, finishing lingering and delightfully crisp dry. At its best: now to 2025.” 5 Stars, Wine Orbit 2022.
I can offer it for $30 a bottle.
