Skip to main content
Bottle and Glass
0
  • Red Wine
    • Argentina
    • Australia
    • Austria
    • Chile
    • France
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • South Africa
    • Spain
    • USA
  • White Wine
    • Australia
    • Austria
    • France
    • Germany
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • South Africa
  • Rosé Wine
    • Australia
    • France
  • Sparkling Wine
    • Australia
    • France
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • Spain
  • Sweet
    • Australia
    • France
    • Germany
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
  • Mixed Cases
  • Gift Vouchers
  • Magnums
  • Super Premium
Bottle and Glass
0
Cart0 Login / Register
  • Red Wine
    • Argentina
    • Australia
    • Austria
    • Chile
    • France
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • South Africa
    • Spain
    • USA
  • White Wine
    • Australia
    • Austria
    • France
    • Germany
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • South Africa
  • Rosé Wine
    • Australia
    • France
  • Sparkling Wine
    • Australia
    • France
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • Spain
  • Sweet
    • Australia
    • France
    • Germany
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
  • Mixed Cases
  • Gift Vouchers
  • Magnums
  • Super Premium
  • Home
  • Our Newsletter
  • But First Champagne

But First Champagne

David   5 December 2019 

Champagne - was there ever a tipple so suited to both summer and celebration? We never really need an excuse to drink it. As they say, always keep a bottle of Champagne in the fridge for special occasions, even if the special occasion is that you've got a bottle of Champagne in the fridge.

But why drink generic NV Champagne when you can enjoy a top notch small producer like AR Lenoble?

‘Considering the small scale of the operation and quality, AR Lenoble could be charging a lot more for their Champagnes. For me they are in a select forward-thinking group who are making some of the most exciting wines in Champagne right now.’ Davy Zyw, 101 Champagnes and Other Sparkling Wines to Try Before You Die.

Last year, 67 Pall Mall held their annual ‘new-wave champagne’ tasting. This extraordinary London establishment is quite simply the best place to drink wine. It has a list offering 4,000 bottles and the largest by-the-glass list on the planet, featuring over 750 wines. Notes for the event were provided by Tim Hall, a regular contributor to jancisrobinson.com, who really knows his stuff. There were some impressive houses in the line-up, including Agrapart and Jacquesson, as well as bigger names like Dom Perignon and Louis Roederer.

Here’s what Hall had to say about AR Lenoble:

“AR Lenoble is probably the most admired boutique family house right now. There is an international buzz and it reflects the outburst of family creative energy in the past few years from brother and sister owners Antoine and Anne Malassagne.  …intense fruit and fresh precision in all their wines. Here is a small house making a big point. Incidentally, the A R Lenoble wines have been the house champagne pour at Michelin two-star Le Gavroche in London for over 20 years.”

He’s not the only one singing its praises. For those of you who love Champagne, Tyson Stelzer’s annual Champagne Guide is a must read. Stelzer is a world authority on Champagne and an Aussie to boot. He’s a contributor to the Oxford Companion to Wine as well as Wine Spectator and Decanter magazines. He’s won a swag of awards, including International Wine & Spirit Communicator of the Year 2015, Wine Communicators of Australia Australian Wine Communicator of the Year 2015 & 2013, and International Champagne Writer of the Year 2011. His guide is the definitive resource (and a wonderful Christmas present).

In his 2018-2019 edition, Stelzer rates Lenoble 7 (out of 10), putting the house alongside big names like Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart and Agrapart, and above big names like Lanson, Piper Heidsieck, Henriot and Laurent-Perrier. It gets better… in the most affordable category of ‘The Best Champagnes of the Year’ Le Noble Cuvée Intense NV came in with the second highest score! The two top scoring wines, only one point above, are not available in Australia.

Anne and Antoine Malassagne.

Lenoble is one of a dwindling number of family owned, independent Champagne producers. Most having been acquired by large corporates like LVMH and Pernod Ricard. The house was established in 1915 when Armand-Raphael Graser arrived from Alsace to protect his family during WWI. A few years later, he moved into an 18th century building in the town of Damery and started to produce Champagne under the AR Lenoble name. The AR came from his initials and Lenoble was a rather grand nod to the nobility of Champagne. The domaine is still run from the same building, by Armand-Raphael’s great-grandchildren - brother and sister, Anne and Antoine Malassagne.

What I admire about this duo is that they both had successful careers elsewhere when they inherited the business and could easily have sold up to live handsomely off the proceeds. But their passion, uncompromising commitment to quality, long hours of hard work and expensive initiatives, both in the vineyard and winery, have seen the house returned to its former glory.

I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Antoine a few times, once over lunch at my house, which gave me not only an insight into his wines, but an appreciation of the quality of Lenoble’s 18 hectares of vineyards. They own vineyards in the Grand Cru village of Chouilly (Chardonnay) and in the Premier Cru of Bisseuil (Pinot Noir). Pinot Meunier comes from growers in the village of Dameray. Owning such excellent vineyards and having such a high level of self-sufficiency ensures a continuity and quality of fruit that’s fundamental to the success of the house.

Out of 320 villages in Champagne, there are only 6 Grand Cru Chardonnay villages, which can provide only a fraction of the Chardonnay required for the millions of bottles of Champagne produced each year. Top houses such as Louis Roederer (Cristal), Bollinger and Pol Roger are unable to use just Grand Cru Chardonnay in all of their blends. I was stunned to learn that Lenoble’s Chouilly holdings combined with their small production means they are the only house in Champagne able to use Grand Cru Chardonnay in all of their wines, even the entry level Cuvée Intense NV. It makes you realise just how special this house is.

Before assuming his place in the Champagne world, Antoine was an engineer, the profession to which he attributes his meticulous and scientific approach in the vineyard. High rainfall in Champagne makes mildew a constant threat, but Lenoble’s vineyards are managed without the use of chemical sprays and the house was the second (after Bollinger) to receive the Haute Valuer Environmental HVE (High Environmental Value) Certification.

Back in 2013, AR Lenoble was ranked 14th of the 50 Best Champagne Houses by the highly acclaimed French wine magazine La Revue du Vin de France. “A must discover!” they exclaimed, putting Lenoble ahead of big names such as Veuve Clicquot and Taittinger. Considering there are over 300 Champagne houses, it was a huge gong for such a small house.

Here’s Robert Parker on A.R. Lenoble: “The Domaine A. R. Lenoble proved to be an exciting discovery. As I have frequently written, one of the more positive developments in Champagne is the number of small domaines that are getting recognition for the high quality of their selections… particularly those offering wine with a quality/price rapport such as Domaine A. R. Lenoble.” Wine Advocate, #107

For non-vintage Champagne, the blending process (known as assemblage) requires great skill in order to create continuity of house style. I find the Lenoble NV style more at the Bollinger/Krug end of the spectrum for weight and complexity, rather than the lighter, fruitier (and dare I say industrial) style of Moët.


A R Lenoble Cuvée Intense NV

The blend of this wine is similar to that of previous years with 30% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 35% Pinot Meunier. Being non-vintage, the wine is a blend from various vintages, but the majority (about 65-70%) is from 2013.

As noted above, the Pinot Noir is from the Premier Cru village of Bisseuil (very chalky soils), the Chardonnay is from the Grand Cru Village of Chouilly and the Pinot Meunier is from Damery (where the house is based), as well as a few other vineyards in the Marne Valley. The remaining 30-35% is reserve wine, which is a blend (from solera) of much older vintages, providing that bit of additional complexity, weight and richness. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation, which helps to retain freshness. The dosage is 5 g/l, making it a dry style.

"An impeccably crafted wine from noble fruit sources, offering value for money. Crunchy apple and grapefruit define a well-focused fruit profile, backed by the biscuity complexity of bottle age and a touch of oak, culminating in a finish of well-focused malic acid line and neatly integrated low dosage. A touch of phenolic texture does not interrupt its flow or mineral mouthfeel. A cuvée of integrity and poise." 93 points, Tyson Stelzer - The Champagne Guide 2018-2019.

To give some perspective: Veuve NV 91 points, Moet NV 88 points, Mumm NV 89 points, Piper Heidseck NV 91 points, Pommery 86 points, Taittinger 93 points.

"Remember gentlemen, it's not just France we are fighting for, it's Champagne!" Winston Churchill. 

The good stuff, from a producer that avoids the limelight. I know what I’ll be drinking this Christmas.

I can offer it for $65 a bottle  Order here


Find our full list of Champagne and sparkling here

Find our full list of rosés here

 

Service

Service

  • My Account
  • Track Order
  • Returns and Refunds

About Us

About Us

  • About Us
  • Our Newsletter
  • Contact Us

Information

Information

  • Terms of Use
  • Privacy Policy
  • Shipping
  • Security Policy

Receive our newsletter

Copyright © 2022 Bottle and Glass. All Rights Reserved.
NSW Liquor Licence No. LIQP770010172
ABN: 61 143 856 919
No Alcohol can be sold or supplied to anyone under 18. It’s against the law.
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Terms & Conditions

Welcome to our website. If you continue to browse and use this website, you are agreeing to comply with and be bound by the following terms and conditions of use, which together with our privacy policy govern Bottle and Glass’s relationship with you in relation to this website. If you disagree with any part of these terms and conditions, please do not use our website.

The term ‘Bottle and Glass’ or ‘us’ or ‘we’ refers to the owner of the website whose registered office is Shop 4, 29 Newland St, Bondi Junction, NSW, 2022. Our ABN is 61 143 856 919. The term ‘you’ refers to the user or viewer of our website.

The use of this website is subject to the following terms of use:

  • The content of the pages of this website is for your general information and use only. It is subject to change without notice.
  • Neither we nor any third parties provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy, timeliness, performance, completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered on this website for any particular purpose. You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent permitted by law.
  • Your use of any information or materials on this website is entirely at your own risk, for which we shall not be liable. It shall be your own responsibility to ensure that any products, services or information available through this website meet your specific requirements.
  • This website contains material which is owned by or licensed to us. This material includes, but is not limited to, the design, layout, look, appearance and graphics. Reproduction is prohibited other than in accordance with the copyright notice, which forms part of these terms and conditions.
  • All trademarks reproduced in this website, which are not the property of, or licensed to the operator, are acknowledged on the website.
  • Unauthorised use of this website may give rise to a claim for damages and/or be a criminal offence.
  • From time to time, this website may also include links to other websites. These links are provided for your convenience to provide further information. They do not signify that we endorse the website(s). We have no responsibility for the content of the linked website(s).
  • Your use of this website and any dispute arising out of such use of the website is subject to the laws of Australia.

Privacy Policy

This privacy policy sets out how we uses and protects any information that you give us when you use this website.

We are committed to ensuring that your privacy is protected. Should we ask you to provide certain information by which you can be identified when using this website, then you can be assured that it will only be used in accordance with this privacy statement.

We may change this policy from time to time by updating this page. You should check this page from time to time to ensure that you are happy with any changes.

What we collect

We may collect the following information:

  • name and job title
  • contact information including email address
  • demographic information such as postcode, preferences and interests
  • other information relevant to customer surveys and/or offers

What we do with the information we gather

We require this information to understand your needs and provide you with a better service, and in particular for the following reasons:

  • Internal record keeping.
  • We may use the information to improve our products and services.
  • We may periodically send promotional emails about new products, special offers or other information which we think you may find interesting using the email address which you have provided.
  • From time to time, we may also use your information to contact you for market research purposes. We may contact you by email, phone, fax or mail. We may use the information to customise the website according to your interests.

Security

We are committed to ensuring that your information is secure. In order to prevent unauthorised access or disclosure, we have put in place suitable physical, electronic and managerial procedures to safeguard and secure the information we collect online.

How we use cookies

A cookie is a small file which asks permission to be placed on your computer's hard drive. Once you agree, the file is added and the cookie helps analyse web traffic or lets you know when you visit a particular site. Cookies allow web applications to respond to you as an individual. The web application can tailor its operations to your needs, likes and dislikes by gathering and remembering information about your preferences.

We use traffic log cookies to identify which pages are being used. This helps us analyse data about webpage traffic and improve our website in order to tailor it to customer needs. We only use this information for statistical analysis purposes and then the data is removed from the system.
Overall, cookies help us provide you with a better website by enabling us to monitor which pages you find useful and which you do not. A cookie in no way gives us access to your computer or any information about you, other than the data you choose to share with us.
You can choose to accept or decline cookies. Most web browsers automatically accept cookies, but you can usually modify your browser setting to decline cookies if you prefer. This may prevent you from taking full advantage of the website.

Links to other websites

Our website may contain links to other websites of interest. However, once you have used these links to leave our site, you should note that we do not have any control over that other website. Therefore, we cannot be responsible for the protection and privacy of any information which you provide whilst visiting such sites and such sites are not governed by this privacy statement. You should exercise caution and look at the privacy statement applicable to the website in question.

Controlling your personal information

You may choose to restrict the collection or use of your personal information in the following ways:

  • whenever you are asked to fill in a form on the website, look for the box that you can click to indicate that you do not want the information to be used by anybody for direct marketing purposes
  • if you have previously agreed to us using your personal information for direct marketing purposes, you may change your mind at any time by writing to or emailing us.

We will not sell, distribute or lease your personal information to third parties unless we have your permission or are required by law to do so. We may use your personal information to send you promotional information about third parties which we think you may find interesting if you tell us that you wish this to happen.

If you believe that any information we are holding on you is incorrect or incomplete, please write to or email us as soon as possible at the above address. We will promptly correct any information found to be incorrect.