Monday the 13th March was International Riesling Day. Not sure how they decide these things, but I’m all for it, I love riesling! It’s the white wine I have most of by far in my cellar and it’s the white wine I want to drink most often. It’s diverse, ageworthy, food-friendly and best of all - you don't have to spend too much to get great quality.
Jancis Robinson MW is one of my favourite critics and a long-time riesling devotee. She’s responsible for a few terrific riesling quotes, including this from 2014: “for roughly 35 years I have been talking up Riesling, describing it as the world's greatest white wine grape… I know that Riesling can transmit terroir more sensitively than any white wine grape I know, making it truly the counterpart of the Pinot Noir that is so often grown alongside it. I also know that Riesling is just as good at history as it is at geography. Its wines can last just as long as those made from Cabernet Sauvignon. (I know; I once organised a tasting of the same senior vintages of Mosels and Médocs.) I also appreciate the way that, thanks to its extraordinary extract in many cases, Riesling can deliver so much flavour without that much alcohol and, perhaps because of this, it goes so well with food - far better than a typical Chardonnay.”
The much-awarded wine bar, Love Tilly Devine in Surry Hills, has a great dedication to riesling in its wine list. Here are some snippets that make me smile:
“Riesling is not only one of the greatest joys of the world, it’s also one of the most maligned and misunderstood. So in the interests of humanity and the patrons of this bar, we present some simple, objective and irrefutable facts on this most refreshing and delicious of beverages.
Despite the best efforts of wine critics, sommeliers and wine merchants, riesling remains largely unloved in Australia. The 2022 vintage in Australia saw riesling account for 1.2% of the total (red and white) and 2.7% of the white crush. Chardonnay accounted for 46% of the white grape crush. It baffles me why riesling isn’t more popular.
Two of Australia’s best-known and highly regarded riesling regions are Clare Valley and Eden Valley, both producing world class examples of the variety.
“We’ve always believed that to make great wine you need great vineyards. We’ve spent years perfecting our methods and approach to amplify the unique characteristics found in the beautiful Clare Valley.” Mitchell Wines.
The Clare Valley sits about 2 hours north of Adelaide, in the rolling hills of the Mount Lofty Ranges. Looking at the region on a map, it’s hard to believe grapes could be grown so far north - with dry and arid country less than 50km away, but the climate enjoyed by the Clare is totally different. The region is characterised by a continental climate, which means hot summers and cold winters, however it also experiences afternoon breezes with cold nights, both of which temper the heat. In addition, the region generally sits at between 400-500m elevation, which also reduces temperatures.
Vines were first planted here in 1840 and these days the Clare has over 5,000ha of vineyards - which to put in context, in 2021 accounted for about 1% of the total Australian crush. Clare comprises 5 districts, which from south to north are; Auburn, Watervale, Sevenhill, Polish Hill River and Clare. There are over 80 wineries in the region, ranging from small family run ventures, through to exciting new and emerging producers (Wines by KT, Koerner), established names (Jim Barry, Taylors) and top end icons (Wendouree, Grosset).
Whilst the three most planted varieties, by a big margin, are riesling, shiraz and cabernet, it’s riesling that’s most synonymous with the region. Here’s what the peak industry body, Wine Australia has to say about Clare riesling: “This is Clare Valley’s signature wine. Famed around the world, it’s light, fresh and citrusy with flavours of lime. The best wines can be aged for years and even decades.”
John Hughes of Rieslingfreak keeps a close eye on ripening Eden Valley riesling.
The Eden Valley lies just an hour northeast of Adelaide, just to the east of the Barossa, in the Mount Lofty Ranges. Whilst at 591 square km, it’s about the same size as Barossa, its area under vine is 2,170ha, only about a fifth of the Barossa. Vines were first planted in the area in 1847 and these days there are over 30 wineries, the most high-profile of which include Henschke, Yalumba, and Mountadam. Many other wineries, whilst not located in the Eden, either have vineyards there (eg. Pewsey Vale, Heggies and Leo Buring) or source fruit from the region.
The region sits at between 220-630m elevation and has one sub-region known as High Eden. The altitude makes it much cooler than the Barossa, with the highest sites ideal for cool-climate viticulture. While shiraz and riesling are the major varieties, each accounting for 28% of the regional crush in 2022, it’s riesling that the area’s most famous for.
Here’s what Wine Australia had to say about Eden Valley and riesling; “The Eden Valley has a proud Riesling tradition and is the most important white grape of the region. The wines have strong lime juice aromas with great intensity of flavour on the palate. As the wines age, marmalade and toasty nuances appear on nose and palate. Good Eden Valley Riesling will take ten years or more to reach its peak.” Wine Australia.
Image courtesy of Wine Australia.
With all this in mind, here are two wines to help you see riesling - one from Clare Valley and one from Eden Valley. Both are highly awarded and from the acclaimed 2022 vintage, which Huon Hooke (not one for praise) described as a “stand out vintage.” Oh, and did I mention they’re both under $25. What’s not to like?
Mitchell Clare Valley Watervale Riesling 2022
Mitchell Wines is a family run affair in the Clare Valley. Peter McNicol Mitchell planted a small number of vines on his farm in 1949, which his son Andrew continued and expanded, eventually establishing Mitchell Wines in 1975 with his wife Jane. Their three children Hilary, Angus and Edwina are now at the helm. The three have brought not only a generational change, but also a focus on innovation.
These days the family has 60ha of vines spread across 4 well positioned sites, including the Sevenhill Vineyard - the original site Peter NcNicol Mitchell purchased back in 1949. It was planted with vines in 1982 - they now surround the winery and cellar door which was named best Tasting Experience in Gourmet Traveller Wine Australia’s Best Cellar Door Awards 2021.
The winery has enjoyed a regime of upgrades over many years and now boasts all the bells and whistles, enabling the family to carry out and control all tasks, including bottling, which (contrary to popular belief) isn’t always done on site. While there are plenty of winemakers touting their ‘natural’ credentials, Mitchell has, without fanfare, pursued an emphasis on sustainability for almost 15 years, including the elimination of artificial herbicides and pesticides. They are in the process of obtaining certification. Similarly, the family has been following a process of minimal intervention in the winery for over 45 years.
“(Mitchell)… widely regarded as one of the world’s great Riesling producers.” Huon Hooke’s The Real Review.
“Nobody has done more to build aromatic and textural complexity into the wines of this category (Australian dry riesling)than the Mitchell family in the Clare Valley.” James Suckling.
As for the wine itself, it's dry, 12.5% alcohol and sealed with a screwcap.
“Flinty wet sand minerality with kafir lime and lemon blossom. The flavour is fresh and bright. Struck match flintiness with exotic limes. Long and linear with sweet fruit and textural tangents giving the wine complexity and generosity.” Winemaker’s notes.
Chair of Judges Award - Clare Valley Wine Show 2022 - Mitchell Wines Watervale Riesling for the 2002, 2015 & 2022.
“Incredibly elegant and delicate with tons of floral aromas, the lime usually associated with this appellation way in the background on the front-palate, then growing in intensity as the wine flows gracefully over the palate. Wonderful textural complexity. Very polished acidity drives the brilliant and very long finish.”
97 Points, James Suckling.
No.7. Top 100 Wines, Australia, James Suckling (Grange came in at No. 9 and Hill of Grace came in at No.10).
NO.11 Top Value Wines in world, James Suckling.
Suckling went on to say… “a magnificent example of this work. The delicacy of the floral aromas shows that power is not necessarily an enemy of subtlety. This wine shows what working with fully ripe fruit and wild fermentation can do for Australian dry riesling.”
Mitchell wines has been guided by three generations of passionate winemakers. From Peter McNicol Mitchell’s modest beginnings, to Andrew and Jane’s business nous and passion for winemaking, to their three children Hilary, Edwina and Angus, who are now at the helm.
“Pale colour. Fragrant lemon curd, lime, camomile aromas with herb garden notes and a hint of tonic water. Beautifully concentrated wine with lovely lemon curd, grapefruit lime flavours, some tonic water notes, fine lacy slightly al dente textures and long fresh crisp acidity. Lovely density and line. Now – 2030.”
96 Points, Andrew Caillard MW, The Vintage Journal.
“Glistening in lime-yellow hues, the scent - not to mention the palate - boasts a deep, concentrated lime and lemon intensity. Floral aromatics and green apple hover in the background. This is a moment for Clare’s strong suit, a rich vein of citrus that carries all before it. Texture is already apparent and brings with it a smoothness like lemon curd which helps to amplify the clean intensity of the citrus. Spice and apple notes across the palate play a supporting role. Racy acidity, another bonus in a great year, is energised and fully integrated. This little beauty is ready to be enjoyed now and will keep keeping on for years.”
95 Points, Jeni Port, Wine Pilot.
I can offer it for $21 a bottle.
Rieslingfreak No. 4 Eden Valley Riesling 2022
Rieslingfreak… there’s not a winemaker in Australia as single-minded or tireless in his devotion to riesling as John Hughes. Between growing up in the family vineyard in the Clare, and his father’s cellar stocked with aged rieslings, John was always going to have a fondness for the variety. By the time I met him in the early 90s, at Roseworthy in Adelaide, John was a fully-fledged riesling nut. I remember several trips to the Clare with him, talking and tasting nothing but riesling. John spent 10 years at the Australian Wine Research Institute being a serious wine geek, after which he travelled through Europe, making a pilgrimage to the home of riesling - Alsace. He then headed back to the Barossa, where he worked for Peter Lehman and Chris Ringland (of Three Rivers fame) for several years, before striking out on his own - his sole focus (you guessed it) - riesling.
John’s first vintage was 2009 and since then he’s received just about every accolade there is - nowadays sitting in the top echelon of riesling producers in the country. Given John’s passion, hard work and skill, I’m the first to say his success is well deserved.
I’ve written about John regularly over the years, a task made easier by the fact that he’s always so busy. True to form, since I last wrote about John about a year ago, here are a few of the things he and his wife Belinda Hughes, also a talented winemaker and now working with John, have been up to:
John was made a Baron of the Barossa in November last year, in recognition not only for his work in elevating riesling to cult status, but also in acknowledgment of his work in the community. Belinda was a Finalist in the 2022 Young Gun of Wine Award. Rieslingfreak was included in The Real Review’s (Huon Hooke) Top Wineries of Australia 2022, coming in at a super-impressive No.14, putting them ahead of Henschke (15), Clonakilla (20) and Giaconda (21), to name just a few. And to top it off, the couple purchased a building in the Barossa in which they plan to open a new cellar door.
John and Belinda make a complete range of rieslings, from dry, through to sweet, as well as a sparkling and even a fortified. The family has a vineyard in the Clare, but John also sources fruit from the Eden Valley, from which he makes his No.4 Eden Valley Riesling, which is usually my favourite of his entry level wines. I love the wine’s purity and elegance.
The No.4 2022 was included in James Halliday’s Top 100 Wines of 2022, as well as being awarded Elite Gold (95 points) at the National Riesling challenge 2022. The wine is dry, 12% alcohol and sealed with a screwcap.
John and Belinda Hughes have long shared a friendly rivalry over who makes Riesling better, and share a swag of awards and critical acclaim between them. Belinda finally joined the Rieslingfreak team for the 2021 vintage and describes their labours as "winemaking with heart."
“Eden Valley is renowned for Riesling of elegance, perfume and minerality; and the 2022 No.4 is a classic example of this. The bouquet leaps forth with aromas of white florals, fresh lime and quince. The palate is elegant yet assuredly structured with foundational slate-like minerality running beneath the punchy flavours of lime cordial and white elderberry. The racy natural acidity, which is a hallmark of both the region and the 2022 vintage, runs the length of the palate drawing through to a fine, crisp finish; while the flavours lingering lusciously in the mouth long after the wine has gone.” Winemaker’s notes.
“Don’t be fooled by John Hughes’ quirky business name. Eden Valley's dominant juicy lime fruit comes through at speed, backs off towards the back palate before surging on the finish and aftertaste, with white peach and grapefruit providing a high wire of acidity and length.” 96 points, James Halliday’s Top 100 wines for 2022.
“Very light, almost pale colour with a super-reserved, shy, rather closed nose, more mineral than citrus or floral: a slaty, stony note. The palate is lean and tense, with piercing but soft acidity and great delicacy as well as intensity. Some saline minerality on the middle to back palates as well, adding to the interest level. Long, long, sustained follow-through. Superb wine with a big future.” 95 Points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review.
National Riesling challenge 2022 - 95 points, Elite Gold.
I can offer it for $24 a bottle.
