Skip to main content
Bottle and Glass
0
  • Red Wine
    • Australia
    • Austria
    • France
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • Spain
  • White Wine
    • Australia
    • Austria
    • France
    • Germany
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • South Africa
  • Rosé Wine
    • Australia
    • France
  • Sparkling Wine
    • Australia
    • France
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • Spain
  • Sweet
    • Australia
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
  • Fortified Wine
    • Australia
  • Mixed Cases
  • Gift Vouchers
Bottle and Glass
0
Cart0 Login / Register
  • Red Wine
    • Australia
    • Austria
    • France
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • Spain
  • White Wine
    • Australia
    • Austria
    • France
    • Germany
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • South Africa
  • Rosé Wine
    • Australia
    • France
  • Sparkling Wine
    • Australia
    • France
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
    • Spain
  • Sweet
    • Australia
    • Italy
    • New Zealand
  • Fortified Wine
    • Australia
  • Mixed Cases
  • Gift Vouchers
  • Home
  • Our Newsletter
  • Make Some Room For Mosel

Make Some Room For Mosel

David   7 December 2018 

There’s not much debate as to the home of Riesling, a variety responsible for some of the most diverse and ageworthy wines in the world. It’s a real favourite of mine, and the white variety I have the most of in my cellar. 

“Riesling is the great vine variety of Germany and could claim to be the finest white grape variety in the world on the basis of the longevity of its wines and their ability to transmit the characteristics of a vineyard without losing Riesling's own inimitable style.” Oxford Companion to Wine. 

Riesling is Germany’s signature variety, accounting for 24% of plantings. The best known region in Germany (many would argue the world) for Riesling is Mosel, named after the river along which the vineyards sit. 

The Australian wine industry is familiar with the name Mosel, albeit in the context of gems like Lindeman’s Ben Ean Moselle, the first wine to be advertised on Australian TV. Who can forget Little River Band’s ad for Dr Lindeman, singing Who wants to be a millionaire? Ben Ean, originally a blend of Hunter Semillon and Verdelho, was named after one of Lindeman’s Hunter vineyards and went on to become as big a star, if not bigger, than its inspiration, Orlando's Barossa Pearl. During the 70s, Ben Ean Moselle was Australia’s biggest selling white wine - which actually has nothing to do with the real Mosel.

The Mosel River flows north from the Vosges Mountains in France, and then northeast across Germany until it meets the mighty Rhine River at Koblenz. There are picture-postcard vineyards along the river banks from where it enters Germany. From 1971- 2007 the region was known as Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, incorporating the names of two important tributaries. 

Despite being so far north and chilly, conditions in Mosel provide optimal conditions for Riesling, with the variety responsible for over 60% of plantings in the region. The key attributes that account for Riesling’s success in the Mosel are the steep slopes, which while incredibly hard and expensive to work, allow vines to capture the suns rays directly as well as indirectly via reflection from the river. The winding river also provides multiple sites that provide shelter from wind, with the best sites facing south to gain maximum exposure to the sun. The other key feature is the predominance of slate soil, which when warmed up by the sun, stores heat and radiates it back to the vines when the sun goes down.

Around 90% of wine from Mosel is white and has traditionally been low alcohol (less than 10%) with some residual sugar to match the high acidity, although in more recent times wines are being made in a drier style. Riesling from Mosel is unlike Riesling anywhere else. Mosel Riesling “is associated with long-lived wines of delicacy and dynamic complexity” Oxford Companion to Wine. Mosel wines are bottled in a signature green bottle, as opposed to the brown bottles used for Rheingau and other Rhine wines.

It’s hard to find dry, entry level Mosel for a reasonable price, but I’ve come across a nice drop recently. I also want to show you one of my favourite Mosel producers, whose wines are simply stunning and I reckon worth every cent. 


Weingut Vollenweider

We’ve all had those moments when a great bottle of wine leads to crazy dreams of devoting your life to tending vines. For most of us though, rationality kicks in by the time the bottle is finished. But in the case of Daniel Vollenweider, a Swiss fellow with no history of winemaking, inspired by a bottle of 1990 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Auslese he drank in 1992, the dream became reality!

After a few winemaking stints, Daniel started his own estate in 1999 with a mere 1 ha in one of the great forgotten sites of the middle Mosel, Wolfer Goldgrube. This once-famous vineyard is referred to in both the Oxford Companion to Wine and The World Atlas of Wine. The vineyard had fallen fallow, it’s steep slope too arduous to work by the dwindling pool of ageing winemakers, but Daniel recognised the potential of the 80-year-old vines, and working with organic practices took on the gruelling task of reclaiming this magnificent site.

Winemaker Daniel Vollenweider.

“In 2003, Daniel was awarded the winemaking “Discovery of the Year” by the influential wine publication Gault Millau. As early as 2005 Riesling dorks in the U.S. were talking about the wines - if you could find a rare bottle of Vollenweider to bring to an event, well, you were indeed cool. By 2009 the Gault Millau had ranked Daniel at four stars, at the same level as heavy-weights Karthäuserhof, Schloss Lieser, Willi Schaefer and Zilliken.” Steven Bitterolf, US importer. 

“It used to be thought that the drama of Mosel wine ended at Kinheim, but a new generation of producers such a Swiss-born Daniel Vollenweider of Wolfer Goldgruber are proving otherwise in a delicious, indeed dramatic way.” The World Atlas of Wine. 

In the ensuing years, Daniel enlarged his holdings to 12.4 ha, focusing on reclaiming old vineyards on great sites. The estate is now spread across three sites, Wolfer Goldgrube (primary site) as well as Schimbock and Kröver Steffensberg. The vineyards are all Riesling, all steep and all full of slate.

These days Daniel makes a full range of Riesling; dry, off-dry, sweet and noble sweet; ie. botrytis. Everything is done by hand in the vineyard and in the winery it’s a similar story where he takes the minimal intervention approach. 

Vollenweider Felsenfest Riesling 2016

Felsen means ‘rock’ in German, referring to the rocky (slate) soil in which the vines grow. The fruit is sourced from all three of Daniel’s vineyards, so despite being an entry level, or estate wine as they are referred to in Germany, it’s essentially a declassified grand Cru, which is incredible for this price. The wine was fermented to a dry level, in stainless steel to retain freshness. 

In the glass, this is a clear bright gold with rose gold highlights. On the nose it’s very aromatic with honeysuckle, lemon, pineapple, pear and wet stone. A sip reveals a wine that’s bone dry - zingy clean acid, lemon and pineapple notes mingle with wisps of delicate musk before a flinty finish. A very different kettle of fish to Australian Riesling (which I also love). This wine is elegant and beautifully balanced.

The world needs more dreamers like Daniel to resurrect these incredible sites. Entry level, dry Mosel Riesling of this quality at this price in Australia is hard to come by. Be sure to stock up. 

I can offer it for $32 Order here


Clemens Busch

Clemens Busch is widely acknowledged as one of the top producers in Mosel. His wines are simply superb. 

Based in the small town of Punderich, just down the river from Daniel Vollenweider, Clemens is the real deal. He’s a fifth generation winemaker and lives in a house built in 1663 on the banks of the Mosel. Clemens has about 27 acres of prime vineyard sites, located across the river from his house, the largest of which is the "Pündericher Marienburg”, referred to simply as Marienburg. It's an incredibly steep and rocky vineyard, composed mainly of stoney slate that's perfect for Riesling and not surprisingly, this is the variety Clemens focuses on.

Clemens works his exceptional vineyard sites with his own hands and makes some of the best Rieslings you'll ever try. He approaches his task with a zeal that borders on obsession and is considered one of the most progressive winemakers in Germany. His connection to the land runs deep, he is a pioneer of organic viticulture in Germany and also practices biodynamics. 

Clemens Busch tending his vines.

Winemaking at Clemens Busch is an extension of vineyard practices. No cultured yeasts, no additions, ageing on lees and minimal sulphur. Incredibly, and unusually, some of his natural ferments can last for up to a year. 

Since 1971 German wine bureaucracy has considered the Marienburg site one terroir, however Clemens not only distinguishes several sub-sites within the Marienburg vineyard based on historical terroirs (Fahrlay, Falkenlay, Rothenpfad, Felsterrasse and Raffes), he also delineates based on three types of slate in the vineyard; blue, grey and red, which he identifies with corresponding capsule colours.

Labelling in German is a nightmare, with their wine classification system a complete maze.

Table wines may be either Deutscher Tafelwein or a step up to Deutscher Landwein. Unlike major European wine-producing countries like France and Italy where Table Wines account for the bulk of output, in Germany it only accounts for about 4% of production. 

Quality wines may be either Qualitätswein or a step up to Prädikatswein. Unlike most other countries, Germany’s Quality Wine hierarchy is based on grape ripeness at harvest (mostgewicht) not geographical location. Prädikatswein is categorised by increasing levels of ripeness as follows: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) . There’s much more to it all than this but I don’t want to totally lose you.

Just to confuse matters, a high profile producer grouping formed in 1910 known as the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingütter), as well as having a self-imposed quality charter, also have their own quality hierarchy based on locality (as in France) rather than ripeness levels. So you’ll see on VDP producer’s bottles, reference to: 

  • VDP Gutswein (equivalent to Burgundy Regional level) 
  • VDP Orstwein (equivalent to Burgundy Village level) 
  • VDP Erste Lage (equivalent to Burgundy Premier Cru level
  • VDP Grosse Lage also known as Grosses Gewächs or GG (equivalent to Burgundy Grand Cru level)

There are about 200 top German producers in the VDP, all of whom meet its stringent standards. Clemens was admitted in 2007 and labels his top vineyard sites as "Grosses Gewächs" (great growths) which he abbreviates to GG on his labels. 

The two wines below are from the fabled 2015 Mosel vintage. Wine Folly (a good educational website) described the 2015 vintage as “10/10 Just freakin’ awesome. Please save some for me.” 

Huon Hooke referred to “the superlative quality of the 2015 Riesling harvest.” Adding that all of the 15s from Clemens are “high-acid, mineral wines which ideally should be cellared for a few years before you drink them.” Both The Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator rated the vintage very highly. Clemens said of the stellar vintage “Everything was perfect in 2015.”

“Clemens Busch has to be one of my all time favourite riesling producers. The ethos and winemaking is so sound, the resulting wines so good. Clarity, purity, effortless wines delivering place, style and satisfaction. These 2015 releases, from a cracking season, are ballistic. Organic farming is the baseline for Clemens Busch (since the mind 1980s) and old oak is the vessel of choice for raising wines.” Mike Bennie, The Wine Front. 

Clemens makes a wide range of Riesling, including several Grosses Gewächs which are all fantastic. These two I particularly like:


Clemens Busch Riesling Marienburg GG 2015

This wine is from the original Marienburg parcel which has been in the Busch family for generations. The fruit is from the best vineyards near the river, from the so-called younger vines (35 years), on grey slate immediately below the Marienburg monastery. 

"Pretty perfume shows white strawberry, green melon, slate/flint mineral character, some black currant whiffs and a touch of briar/dried herbs. Intense to taste - steely, mineral-laced feel, brisk, tense, needle-like and bristling with the inward concentration of green apple/citrus character. Incredible feel here.” 95 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front. 

I can offer it for $99 a bottle (limited) Order here


Clemens Busch Riesling Marienburg GG ‘Fahrlay’ 2015

'Fahrlay' is in an area of blue slate and the wine sees skin contact in the vinification process. 

This wine will blow you way. The intensity, the concentration, the texture and especially the chiseled minerality is a unique expression of Riesling. The slate in the vineyard is clearly reflected on the palate. The wine is ripe and unctuous with rich orange blossom and honeysuckle notes. The finish is wonderfully dry and minerally with the slightest hint of white pepper. The perfect orchestra.

"Intense bouquet of slate/flint/struck rock. Lightening strike of minerals coupled to blackcurrant, herbs, citrus. Glorious stuff. The palate is intense, inwardly concentrated with minerals bursting at seams. It’s tart and green in a way, but so pleasurable, riding on structure, detail and a tat work laciness of pronounced, revitalising acidity. Pierces the mouth, lingers to infinity. What a ride. I said ‘whoa!’ out loud. Gosh, brilliant.” 97 points. Mike Bennie. The Wine Front. 

Rated the Best Mosel Riesling by Wine and Spirit Magazine. 

“One look at the slippery slope of blue-slate shards covering Fahrlay, and you have to wonder why anyone would be crazy enough to tend vines here. This wine provides an answer, Clemens Busch farms his own-rooted vines biodynamically, and vines this wine slowly with ambient yeasts in large casks, creating a riesling with kaleidoscopic flavours. Its tangy and salty, meal notes playing off a mix of citrus and orchard fruit, with green notes that recall aloe in the mellow richness. Try not to drink it all at once, so you can watch the flavours evolve over the course of a week.That might be challenging however, as the wine is so silky that it’s immediately inviting.” 95 points, Wine and Spirits  Magazine. The wine trade magazine in the US.

This wine is absolutely stunning.

I can offer it for $120 a bottle (limited). Order here


Speaking of Riesling… I also have some of the latest releases from John Hughes aka the Rieslingfreak. I’ve been a big fan of John since we first met at Roseworthy many years ago. This newsletter is already long enough so I won’t go into detail, suffice to say it’s been amazing watch John make a name for himself, in just a few years, as one of the best exponents of Riesling in Australia. His latest wines continue to impress. 

Rieslingfreak No.3 Clare Valley Riesling 2018
I can offer it for $23 a bottle. Order here

Rieslingfreak No.4 Eden Valley Riesling 2017 (note not 2018)  96 points - Gold Medal - 2017 Melbourne Wine Show. 
I can offer it for $23 a bottle. Order here

Rieslingfreak No.5 Clare Valley Off-Dry Riesling 2018  Gold medal - 2018 Clare Valley Show. 
I can offer it for $23 a bottle (limited) Order here

Rieslingfreak No.2  Polish Hill River Riesling 2018
I can offer it for $35 a bottle. Order here

Rieslingfreak No.8 Polish Hill River ‘Schatzlkammer’ 2018  98 points, James Halliday. 
I can offer it for $ 35 a bottle. Order here

Rieslingfreak No.7 Clare Valley Fortified Riesling (375ml) 2013
I can offer it for $25 a bottle. Order here

Service

Service

  • My Account
  • Track Order
  • Returns and Refunds

About Us

About Us

  • About Us
  • Our Newsletter
  • Contact Us

Information

Information

  • Terms of Use
  • Privacy Policy
  • Shipping
  • Security Policy

Receive our newsletter

Copyright © 2021 Bottle and Glass. All Rights Reserved.
NSW Liquor Licence No. LIQP770010172
ABN: 61 143 856 919
Liquor Act 2007: It is against the law to sell or supply alcohol to, or obtain alcohol on behalf of, a person under the age of 18 years. We support the responsible service of alcohol.
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Terms & Conditions

Welcome to our website. If you continue to browse and use this website, you are agreeing to comply with and be bound by the following terms and conditions of use, which together with our privacy policy govern Bottle and Glass’s relationship with you in relation to this website. If you disagree with any part of these terms and conditions, please do not use our website.

The term ‘Bottle and Glass’ or ‘us’ or ‘we’ refers to the owner of the website whose registered office is Shop 4, 29 Newland St, Bondi Junction, NSW, 2022. Our ABN is 61 143 856 919. The term ‘you’ refers to the user or viewer of our website.

The use of this website is subject to the following terms of use:

  • The content of the pages of this website is for your general information and use only. It is subject to change without notice.
  • Neither we nor any third parties provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy, timeliness, performance, completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered on this website for any particular purpose. You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent permitted by law.
  • Your use of any information or materials on this website is entirely at your own risk, for which we shall not be liable. It shall be your own responsibility to ensure that any products, services or information available through this website meet your specific requirements.
  • This website contains material which is owned by or licensed to us. This material includes, but is not limited to, the design, layout, look, appearance and graphics. Reproduction is prohibited other than in accordance with the copyright notice, which forms part of these terms and conditions.
  • All trademarks reproduced in this website, which are not the property of, or licensed to the operator, are acknowledged on the website.
  • Unauthorised use of this website may give rise to a claim for damages and/or be a criminal offence.
  • From time to time, this website may also include links to other websites. These links are provided for your convenience to provide further information. They do not signify that we endorse the website(s). We have no responsibility for the content of the linked website(s).
  • Your use of this website and any dispute arising out of such use of the website is subject to the laws of Australia.

Privacy Policy

This privacy policy sets out how we uses and protects any information that you give us when you use this website.

We are committed to ensuring that your privacy is protected. Should we ask you to provide certain information by which you can be identified when using this website, then you can be assured that it will only be used in accordance with this privacy statement.

We may change this policy from time to time by updating this page. You should check this page from time to time to ensure that you are happy with any changes.

What we collect

We may collect the following information:

  • name and job title
  • contact information including email address
  • demographic information such as postcode, preferences and interests
  • other information relevant to customer surveys and/or offers

What we do with the information we gather

We require this information to understand your needs and provide you with a better service, and in particular for the following reasons:

  • Internal record keeping.
  • We may use the information to improve our products and services.
  • We may periodically send promotional emails about new products, special offers or other information which we think you may find interesting using the email address which you have provided.
  • From time to time, we may also use your information to contact you for market research purposes. We may contact you by email, phone, fax or mail. We may use the information to customise the website according to your interests.

Security

We are committed to ensuring that your information is secure. In order to prevent unauthorised access or disclosure, we have put in place suitable physical, electronic and managerial procedures to safeguard and secure the information we collect online.

How we use cookies

A cookie is a small file which asks permission to be placed on your computer's hard drive. Once you agree, the file is added and the cookie helps analyse web traffic or lets you know when you visit a particular site. Cookies allow web applications to respond to you as an individual. The web application can tailor its operations to your needs, likes and dislikes by gathering and remembering information about your preferences.

We use traffic log cookies to identify which pages are being used. This helps us analyse data about webpage traffic and improve our website in order to tailor it to customer needs. We only use this information for statistical analysis purposes and then the data is removed from the system.
Overall, cookies help us provide you with a better website by enabling us to monitor which pages you find useful and which you do not. A cookie in no way gives us access to your computer or any information about you, other than the data you choose to share with us.
You can choose to accept or decline cookies. Most web browsers automatically accept cookies, but you can usually modify your browser setting to decline cookies if you prefer. This may prevent you from taking full advantage of the website.

Links to other websites

Our website may contain links to other websites of interest. However, once you have used these links to leave our site, you should note that we do not have any control over that other website. Therefore, we cannot be responsible for the protection and privacy of any information which you provide whilst visiting such sites and such sites are not governed by this privacy statement. You should exercise caution and look at the privacy statement applicable to the website in question.

Controlling your personal information

You may choose to restrict the collection or use of your personal information in the following ways:

  • whenever you are asked to fill in a form on the website, look for the box that you can click to indicate that you do not want the information to be used by anybody for direct marketing purposes
  • if you have previously agreed to us using your personal information for direct marketing purposes, you may change your mind at any time by writing to or emailing us.

We will not sell, distribute or lease your personal information to third parties unless we have your permission or are required by law to do so. We may use your personal information to send you promotional information about third parties which we think you may find interesting if you tell us that you wish this to happen.

If you believe that any information we are holding on you is incorrect or incomplete, please write to or email us as soon as possible at the above address. We will promptly correct any information found to be incorrect.