Guffens Rose Pourquoi Pas 2014
This rosé is made by Burgundian winemaker Jean-Marie Guffens of Domaine Verget and Domaine Guffens-Heynen fame. An unusual and controversial character to say the least, Guffens is universally admired for his brilliant winemaking skills, yet despised for his incendiary flamboyance. Some of his comments on fellow winemakers are extraordinary, as wine correspondent and author Andrew Jefford notes: “To be a Belgian in Burgundy is bad enough, but to be a motormouth who talks about fellow winemakers in the same tender terms that boxers use to needle their opponents has turned Jean-Marie Guffens into a celebrated pariah.”
Guffens makes another rosé for a few dollars less than this one, but when tasted together it’s clear this is the pick. The few extra dollars are definitely worth it, giving much more complexity and intensity. Light salmon in colour, this wine really has some pizzazz with a citrus rind, tomato leaf and musk zing to it. It’s refreshingly concentrated and surprisingly intense for a rosé (which is what I like about it) and as it opens up you’ll find it becomes a little more creamy, soft and textured in the mouth. No critics’ notes for this wine as so few get to see it.
With this bottling Guffens has crafted something altogether more quirky, more full bodied and more food friendly. "It's my Bouillabaisse rosé," the celebrated winemaker told us simply. Here Guffens does away with the traditional Provençal varieties, instead opting for 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Why not? The fruit comes from specific parcels in the vineyard that are picked slightly riper to make this style. The must is fermented in stainless steel before being transferred to large wooden casks where it is matured on its lees for seven months before bottling. The result is a striking, deeply coloured, left field, uber savoury and delicious rosé, not only a step up in power and fruit density but also a far more complex and engaging wine for the dinner table. Pass the rouille, please. Bibendum.