Henri Bonneau Reserve des Celestins 2007
This is Bonneau’s ‘grand vin’, his top wine, only released in good years and 2007 was definitely one of those. Wine Spectator magazine gave the vintage 95/100 and Robert Parker gave it 98/100 - the best vintage rating he’s ever given for CNDP.
The wine is about 90% grenache with the remaining 10% made up of mourvèdre, counoise and vaccarèse. Most of the fruit comes from the Le Crau and Grand Pierre vineyards (sandy soils next to Chateau Rayas). It's a truly great wine that will stop you in your tracks.
“… it offers up a singular, exotic profile that shows the vintage perfume and freshness, as well as the slightly feral quality of this estate. Kirsch liqueur, roasted herbs, blackberry, cured meats, lavender, incense and ground pepper are just some of the nuances here. This full-bodied, concentrated effort hits the palate with authoritative richness and depth, yet stays incredibly light, fresh and even elegant. Already approachable, with a drop-dead gorgeous texture, it should certainly be worth the extra effort to track down once released.” Jeb Dunnuck, The Wine Advocate #209 Oct 2013, 96-98 points.
Only a few dozen bottles make it into the country, although if you’re keen to try an older vintage you can pop into Rockpool Bar & Grill in Sydney where you’ll find the 2001 on the list for $1,250.
This is simply an extraordinary wine, and without a 13th generation to carry on Monsieur Bonneau’s legacy, one we are privileged to see.