Kientzler makes two grand Cru rieslings, the Osterberg and the Geisberg, but all the fuss is about the Geisberg. This is the wine in my friend’s cellar and it's a beauty.
Geisberg is one of the great Grand Crus of Alsace. It’s a small, steep, south facing vineyard in which there are only 5 owners; Trimbach, Kientzler, Faller, Baldenbeck and the local monastery. Only Faller and Kientzler make ‘pure’ Riesling grand Cru Geisberg. Trimbach makes a blend and the others sell their fruit.
The Geisberg vineyard produces fruit of the highest quality, which is handpicked, fermented in stainless steel and bottled under screw cap.
This has the same components as the entry level riesling, but as soon as you open it, it's clear everything is a step up. It’s more intense, more concentrated and has an amazing viscosity and density. This wine’s richness is perfectly balanced by a core of pure, tight acidity, which makes the wine a serious cellaring candidate. You’ll find it dry (4 g/L residual sugar) with flavours of lime cordial, citrus and honey as well as a long lanolin and mineral finish. We can only wonder how someone makes such an intense and lively wine.
When you consider the Trimbach Cuvée ‘Frederic Emile’ (blend of Osterberg and Geisberg) sells for around $100, the value of this wine becomes clear. You’ll find it at Rockpool Bar & Grill in Sydney, out of magnum, for $30 a glass.
This is a great example of a classic dry Alsatian riesling, one that will age beautifully and one you should have in your cellar.