The first stop for most wineheads when visiting Western Australia’s wine regions is iconic Margaret River. Those with a little more time may nip across to Albany (4 hours), taking in the stunning Jarrah and Karri forests, while visiting the wineries of Pemberton and Denmark. With time running out for many by now, it’s time to scoot north back to Perth (5 hours), the most direct route taking you through Mt Barker, where there are a few more wineries to visit.
On the map this triangular trip looks tiny, but WA is so vast and the distances so great, that few people get the chance to visit the beautiful, but very isolated region of Frankland River - described in James Halliday’s Wine Companion as “one of Western Australia’s best-kept secrets.”
Sitting off the route, Frankland River lies about 360km (4 hours) south of Perth and is one of the 5 sub-regions that make up the immense (almost the size of Switzerland) Great Southern Wine Region, the other 4 being Mt Barker, Albany, Denmark and Porongurup.
The Great Southern is renowned for producing some of Australia’s finest rieslings. “With the best from Mt Barker, Porongurup and Frankland River,” Erin Larkin, wine judge and wine writer, now with Halliday. Clearly - of the 13 wines included in Halliday’s 2021 Riesling Varietal Winners, 7 came from Great Southern. Incredible.
In 1955 Dr Harold (Harry) Olmos, then Professor of Viticulture at the University of California, was commissioned to report on the impacts of climate on grape production in the Swan district. He spent several months travelling further afield and when his findings were published in 1956, one of his recommendations was the specific identification of Frankland River as an area of great promise for the production of wine.
Olmos’ work was furthered in the 1960s by Dr John Gladstones, a little-known research scientist with the WA Department of Agriculture. His main job had been the breeding of lupins for Industry, but his other passion was vines. In his spare time, he would roam the regions, looking at the landscape and analysing soils to find the perfect vineyard sites. His earlier research had encouraged Dr’s Kevin Cullen and Tom Culity to give up their medical practices and establish Cullen Wines and Vasse Felix in Margaret River, but his soon to be released publication ‘Viticulture and Environment’ would go further. In it, he looked at climatic data in intricate detail, comparing the best sites in Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône Valley with potential sites in Australia. Aside from discovering Margaret River’s climate was strikingly similar to Bordeaux, he also found the whole southeastern corner of Western Australia, and especially Frankland River, had incredible potential.
The first of the modern-day vineyards were planted in 1967 on the Roche family property, now leased by Houghtons, with others following soon after, including Alkoomi in in 1971. The region experienced significant growth in the 80s and 90s, and today has around 1,600ha. By comparison, Margaret River has around 5,700ha and the Barossa has 11,600ha.
Frankland River is landscape of great natural beauty, characterised by bushland, wildflowers and rich farmlands, as well as some of WA’s largest single plantings of olive trees. The region sits inland from the ocean and at an elevation of between 200-300m, making it cool-climate, with the mean January temp only 19 degrees. The dryer days and cooler nights make it the perfect place to grow almost any type of grape and a wide range is grown, including sauvignon blanc and even grenache, but the region is best known for shiraz, cabernet and of course riesling.
I’m pleased to offer you two of Frankland River’s best producers, one a pioneer, the other a new kid on the block.
Frankland Estate - The Pioneers
Frankland Estate sits in a vast and dramatic landscape, of wide-open spaces, about 4 hours drive from Perth. The vineyard was established by husband-and-wife wool and wheat farmers Barrie Smith and Judi Cullam in 1988. Following Dr Harry Olmos’ and John Gladstone’s predictions, they analysed potential sites within their property and then spent several vintages at Chateau Senejac in Bordeaux, learning all they could before planting a range of varieties back home, on what is now recognised as one of the best vineyards in the country.
“Frankland Estate has emerged as one of the great vineyards of Australia,” Huon Hooke.
5 Star Rating. James Halliday Wine Companion.
“Frankland Estate: superb wines that stand the test of time,” Max Allen, Fin Review.
From their first vintage in 1991, the couple focussed on “minimising our impact on the ecological balance of the region, nurturing the microbiology of our soils and supporting causes to improve the health and future prosperity of our local fauna and flora.” With such an approach it was a natural progression for the estate to become organically certified, which it did in 2009.
These days the estate is run by Barrie and Judi’s children, Elizabeth and Hunter, who live on the property with their own families.
Frankland Estate Riesling 2021
Fermented in stainless steel at low temps over 4 weeks with minimal intervention. Post ferment it was left on lees for 3 months before bottling. 12.5% alcohol and sealed with screwcap. Certified organic.
“Very fragrant white and yellow florals. A nice mix of vibrant limes, bath salts, tangerine and green tea combine to give an alluring complex nose. A soft and delicate wine with persistence and presence. Citrus and white stone fruit abounds with an edge of talc and a salty mineral finish. Exceptional balance interwoven with a creamy texture. Consistent with the now well-established Riesling style from Frankland Estate, this wine displays the balance of pristine fruit flavour, precise delicate acidity, medalled with generosity of fruit, resulting in an exceptional wine that can be enjoyed now or cellared with the confidence it will continue to develop further complexity over the next 10 years.” Winemaker’s notes.
“Takes only a millisecond, once you taste the wine, for the mouth to flood with juicy lime flavours plus splashes of tropical fruits. Totally delicious now, but has the structure to develop well into the next decade.” 95 points, James Halliday, May 2022.
“There’s a very attractively pithy lemon and grapefruit edge to the nose, with peach and green papaya as well as crushed stones. The palate has a very smooth texture with concentrated grapefruit and peach flavours holding long and fresh. Gently fleshy.” 93 points, Nick Stock, Gourmet Traveller WINE .
How good is riesling! So much flavour and freshness here. A must-have and an absolute bargain. Drink now or cellar.
I can offer it for $26.50 a bottle.
Isolation Ridge
The Isolation Ridge Vineyard sits at 256m elevation, offering cool nights and a prolonged ripening period. The fruit was handpicked and fermented in stainless steel at low temps over 8 weeks (that’s a long time for a white like this) with minimal intervention. The wine was then left on lees for 6 months. A small parcel was fermented and aged in oak (neutral) for 10 months, giving some additional complexity and texture. Isolation Ridge is considered one of Australia’s great rieslings and I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling 2021
“Sandalwood, preserved citrus, black tea leaves and jasmine seamlessly merge into the more expected Frankland River riesling characters of lemon zest, green apple skins and chalk. In the mouth, the acidity is like a coiled spring, cushioned by voluminous fruit padding on all sides. This is svelte and streamlined, but it has presence and viscosity, too. There is subtle structural integrity and a spool of lingering flavour through the finish... what a superb wine. This is generous, but it’s tense and taut too... disguised austerity. Slatey.”
97 points, Erin Larkin, Halliday Wine Companion.
James Halliday Wine Companion 2023: Included in Top-Rated Riesling category.
“Frankland River is now a proven contender for inclusion with the other great Australian riesling vineyards. In this wine the intense fruitiness of WA Riesling is on display with almost mango and orange citrus intensity. The palate is big for riesling and plush with middle palate white fruit in the WA manner whereas SA is more citrus and linear. The flavours are fruit salad confectionary and blossom, it’s powerful and intense with a tidy firmness of tannins from a small portion being aged in older oak to close. A masterpiece of understanding the region and balancing flavour intensity, generosity and varietal character, drink younger.”
96 points, Rob Geddes MW.
I can offer it for $50 a bottle (limited).
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Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling 2020
“Superb, energetic, taut and very complex white wine. Scents of ozone and green apple, fennel and talc. Beautiful perfume that reflects perfectly into flavours in the palate, a shimmering, glassy and tense feel drawn long and to a powdery, lightly puckering and, again, talc-like lingering finish. Epic.”
96 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front.
"This is what young riesling is all about, so pure, pristine and exact. Really pale and youthful in the glass with plenty of steely green hues. Slatey and minerally on the nose, there’s also citrus blossom, lime zest and a touch of melon skin. Flavours are focused and precise, there’s lashings of lemony, limey goodness, a lick of wet stone along with a bright and crunchy acidity that gives great drive and length to the wine. A super expression of riesling. (Screwcap)"
96 points, Real Review. #1 of 37, 2020 rieslings from Great Southern.
“Two clones, multiple trellis systems, dry grown, low-yielding, 32yo vines, and a small portion fermented/matured for 10 months in neutral oak all contribute to the wine’s layered complexity. Citrus, white stone fruit and apple are cocooned in a film of vibrant acidity. 13.5% alc, drink to 2040.”
96 points, James Halliday.
I can offer it for $45 a bottle (limited).
Frankland Estate Shiraz 2018
2018 was a great year for Frankland River, as noted in James Halliday’s Wine Companion: “all subregions within the Great Southern reported an outstanding vintage.” The favourable conditions were reflected in this modestly priced wine being awarded:
- Gold medal and 96 point rating at the 2021 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge
- Trophy for Best Western Australian Shiraz at the 2021 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge
- Trophy for Best Organic Shiraz at the 2021 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge
An incredible result! The wine is a blend of 93% shiraz, 4% touriga nacional, 1.5% mourvedre, 1% marsanne and about 0.5% malbec.
“Open-fermented, extended maceration, 14 months’ maturation in French puncheons. The crimson-rimmed deep purple sets the scene for a powerful yet fragrant wine, with poached spiced plum fruit, ripe tannins and French oak beating a delicate tattoo on the finish.”
95 points & Special Value Award, Halliday Wine Companion, Feb 2022.
“Lovely Shiraz, bit of a treat. Graphite, clove, dark chocolate and ripe black cherry. Both dry and generous at once. Sweet-fruited and savoury. Nuanced. Flows effortlessly but there’s tannin here too. Medium-weight in a good way. All those things.” 93 points, Campbell Mattinson, The WineFront.
All I can say is that I wish I had more to sell. Get in quick.
I can offer it for $27 a bottle (limited).
Swinney - New Kid in the Block
Well, not exactly. George ‘Farvie’ Swinney settled in the Frankland River area in 1922 and his 4th generation descendants, siblings Matt and Janelle Swinney, continue to farm the beautiful 2,500ha property. It was not until the 90s, that the family decided to diversify with the planting of some vineyards, and 2012, that a small percentage of the grapes were kept to make their own wine.
In 2014, well-known viticulturalist Lee Hazelgrove took over management of the vineyards, and 2018 saw the arrival of Rob Mann as winemaker in 2018. Since the release of the 2018 wines, Swinney has been an absolute darling of the critics.
Siblings Matt and Janelle Swinney are passionate about bush vine viticulture.
“Swinney is flying.” Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front.
“A new name to reckon with. The Swinneys aren’t new to vines but the recently launched brand amazed us with its formidable quality… the top reds, named Farvie, are shockingly good.” Huon Hooke, The Real Review.
“Validation is faith’s greatest reward, and right now Matt Swinney is up to his eyeballs in it.” Nick Ryan, The Australian.
5 Stars, Outstanding Winery, James Halliday, 2021 Australian Wine Companion
Much of Swinney’s success has been through their obsessive attention to detail in the vineyard, giving winemaker Robb Mann the highest possible quality fruit to work with. Time and experience have allowed the best sites to be chosen, which are farmed using organic methods, minimal irrigation and reduced yields. Swinney was awarded Vineyard of the Year 2020 - Australian Young Gun of Wine Awards.
I’d come across winemaker Rob Mann through his own venture Corymbia (stock available here). Rob is the great-grandson of the legendary Jack Mann (of Houghton’s fame) and has worked at several high-profile wineries including Cape Mentelle and Hardy’s Tintara. He’s a highly talented winemaker and his involvement alone gave me the confidence that all the hype was warranted.
When I finally got to taste the reds with Rob via zoom a few months ago… they were simply beautiful. Pure, intense, deep and yet fresh. These wines have an elusive mix of power and density with vitality and freshness, all the while being gorgeously smooth.
Swinney Syrah 2020
Handpicked fruit was fermented using wild yeasts, after which it spent 2 weeks soaking ‘on skins’ for extra colour and opulence. The wine then spent 11 months in large format, French oak (13% new) before bottling. The finished wine is 14% alcohol and sealed with screwcap.
“Wow. The colour will get you in immediately. Deep and dark with bright crimson hues. The nose is so seductive and engaging. Plum and spices with a fragrant hint of lavender. The palate is so brilliant. Smooth, rich and concentrated, yet with finesse and subtle expression as those spices and dried herbs lift and brighten the deeper plum fruit intensity.”
96 points, Ray Jordan, The West Australian Wine Guide 2022.
“From the fantastically farmed Swinney vineyard, Syrah goes to older (mostly) larger format oak. Swinney for the winney. Quite inky and dense, inward concentration in spades, blackcurrants, boot polish, charry woody spice, silty tannins and saline minerally detail going on. Firm texture in a way but lots of bouncy, bright fruit in that mix - tannins ripple glossy yet taut in the wine. Fresh but deep, dark, brooding too. Black olive, green herbs, the idea of how red earth tastes in this wine too. Serious red, seriously good.” 94 Points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front.
So good.
I can offer it for $40 a bottle (limited).
Swinney Farvie Syrah 2020
Handpicked fruit from the best areas of the vineyard was fermented using wild yeasts in large oak. 11 days on skins, followed by ageing for 11 months in large format French oak. Minimal sulphur, unfined, minimal filtering. 14% alcohol, sealed with screwcap. Only 189 cases made. This is simply a stunning wine.
“The combination of subtle floral perfumes and more rustic slightly herb and ferrous aromas is engaging. The mouthfeel and palate take this wine into a heady zone with the chalky mouthfeel and fruit intensity working harmoniously. There is a distinct ferrous ironstone character with that slightly wild influence that comes from the small amount of naturally fermented mourvedre. Tasted over three days and each time it revealed something new and exciting. It is rare to see a genre redefined, yet here it is.” 99 points, Ray Jordan, The West Australian.
“This is a Syrah that will make the wine world sit up and think what is possible for this variety in Frankland River. In fact, it is one of a number from several producers showing a new direction and exploration for Syrah from this region. The typical Australian model for Shiraz has been tossed out here. It has an incredibly deep and dense colour, and once again the regional ironstone, ferruginous character comes through. There’s an inky pepperiness with a subtle liqueured prune character and dark chocolate notes, albeit slightly understated. The texture and brightness of the palate is a feature. It is also a wine that is unafraid to show its tannins. Winemaker Rob Mann says it is inspired a lot by what is drunk in Europe. He has adopted a similar oak regime to the Grenache and makes it in a reductive way so there is no pumping over. The whole bunches and berries go into upright older oak vats where it is left achieving a slightly carbonic style. Of course, all this is possible because of the fastidious approach adopted by owner Matt Swinney in the vineyard where the search is for the best bunches on the vines. It’s an obsessive and uncompromising approach which yields just 3 tonnes to the hectare. A wine that redefines Syrah in much the same way the Grenache has redefined that variety.” Ray Jordan, Wine Pilot.
Swinney's dry farming and organic practices produce fruit that speaks clearly and intensely of where its grown.
“An utterly gorgeous nose awaits. Ferrous, blood plum, rust, pastrami, blackberries in summer, black cherries and mulberries too. 2020 was warm and yields were low. Across the board, berries were small. An odd observation perhaps, until you encounter the tannins. This is concentrated and textured, with fine-grit tannins that shape the palate and encase the fruit. It insists on a decant as it’s tight as a drum currently - you will miss the complete spectrum of texture if you decide to wade right in. This is a monumental wine of gravitas and poise, the flavour all clustered on the back palate. I suspect we haven’t seen the best of it yet. Drink 2022-2042.” 97 points, Halliday Wine Companion.
James Halliday Wine Companion 2023: Included in Top-Rated Shiraz category.
Not much else I can add to that.
I can offer it for $150 (limited).
Swinney Farvie Grenache 2020
This is the wine that trade and critics are mad about. When it debuted with its 2018 vintage, this is the sort of response that ensued:
“The world’s best grenache is from WA” Nick Ryan, The Australian.
“the grenache, in particular, tastes like no other Australian example of this variety and will change perceptions of the Frankland region...” Max Allen, Australian Financial Review.
“It left wine reviewers across the country gobsmacked and the gushing praise that continued on its international release on Wednesday left no doubt this is the most spectacular and important debut ever of a West Australian wine. On so many levels, the very first vintage of The Farvie Grenache from leading Frankland River producer Swinney Wines is quite simply a gamechanger.” David Prestipino, SMH, The Age & WA Today.
“This wine has emphatically inserted itself into the conversation around the best grenache wines on the planet,” Nick Ryan, The Australian.
“A stunning wine.” Huon Hooke.
“This was one of those tastings you will remember for the rest of your life… We talked about two wines for an hour and could’ve kept going.” Matthew Jukes, UK critic.
“Frankland River will do for Australian Grenache what Tasmania has done for Australian pinot.” Peter Dawson, consultant winemaker.
As for the 2020:
The wine is a blend of 93% grenache and 7% mourvedre. Handpicked fruit, from dry grown bush vines, was fermented using wild yeasts in a large French vat. 40% whole bunch was used. 10 days on skins, followed by ageing for 11 months in large format French oak. Minimal sulphur, unfined, minimal filtering. 14% alcohol, sealed with screwcap. Only 174 cases made.
“The combination of subtle floral perfumes and more rustic slightly herb and ferrous aromas is engaging. The mouthfeel and palate take this wine into a heady zone with the chalky mouthfeel and fruit intensity working harmoniously. There is a distinct ferrous ironstone character with that slightly wild influence that comes from the small amount of naturally fermented mourvedre. Tasted over three days and each time it revealed something new and exciting. It is rare to see a genre redefined, yet here it is.” 99 points, Ray Jordan, The West Australian.
“The 2020 vintage is proving to be an intransigent beast in Frankland. The reds are, on the whole, totally sensational, as this is. But they are fortified at this early stage by a fortress of tannin. When reviewing the Swinney Grenache, it took a full 24 hrs for the wine to show what I knew it had in it all along: supple, slinky, fleshy grenache fruit. This too, is extraordinarily reticent to open up at this stage, even after an hour in the glass, with repeat swirling events. Tight doesn’t cover it. This may be a profound wine, judging by its length and detailed construction, but it will require patience.”
96 points, Erin Larkin, Halliday Wine Companion.
James Halliday’s Wine Companion 2023: Included in Top-Rated Grenache category.
I can offer it for $150 (limited).
Postscript: Sadly I had news today that Frankland Estate founder Barrie Smith passed away just yesterday after a long illness. He leaves a formidable legacy.
